my kenmore dryer wont start but only makes a clicking sound when i push the start button. Carefully flip down the control panel so you can turn it on (and to cover the place where the main power comes into the dryer). I changed the heat element but lost my diagram for the 2 wire ends that plug into the heat element and the other 4 wire ends that plug into thermostats that screw into the side of the heat element tube. The top panel is held in place by three tabs on the back and two catches toward the front on the underneath side of the panel. Thanks for taking the time to share Mike. I have the identical dryer that is not heating. I would encourage you to download the Service Technical Manual I also have linked above and go through all the troubleshooting tests in that document–it’s pretty good actually. I have been repairing appliances for over 30 years. Step by step instructions on how to replace a Heating Element Connecting Wire for Kenmore 110.67032601 No heat or not enough heat #AP3134638 for Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo made by Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Estate. How do you clear the CL code on a Kenmore Elite dryer? That is what I’d have to do to evaluate the information you provided but given you were able to take those measurements you seem sharp enough to follow the guide. Time required 60 minutes or less. In-store: set your location. Find all the parts you need for your Kenmore Dryer 110.68062801 at RepairClinic.com. It is possible and quite likely for a circiut breaker or fuse for one leg of that circuit to fail while leaving the other leg live. This is usually caused by a bad control board. Time required 60 minutes or less. If you learned a trick that would be helpful to others please leave that too! If you do have 220 V AC at your dryer then read on for how to troubleshoot your dryer. This is a quick easy repair that can save you lots of money. It is possible and quite likely for a circuit breaker or fuse for one leg of that circuit to fail while leaving the other leg live. I quickly was able to visually locate the element break: I would not touch the spiral heating element with your bare hands as the oil from your skin can cause the element to prematurely fail when it heats up. You can reply with any additional details or questions for further assistance. This easily helped me diagnose and fix my dryer (same model as yours). Sold by WarehouseOverflow. By using the affiliate links, you are helping support Share Your Repair, and I genuinely appreciate your support. A wiring failure would also cause this result. Should measure approximately 120 volts between each side post and center post and approximately 220 volts between two side posts. Support the drum with one hand and carefully grab the top of the door panel. There are two slits on the bottom edge (red squares) that sit down on the two spring clips (red ovals) on the bottom front edge of the dryer: Here the panel is sitting down on the springs: Once you have the panel slipped on the springs you can rotate the top edge of the panel toward the dryer and push it shut and the top springs will snap the top into place: If you had lowered the control panel to test the dryer, flip it back up and out of the way. An expert will respond shortly with additional information. Repair difficulty. Grab low on each side and swing the bottom out and rotate the panel up and over: Here is a picture of the control panel opened up: I was lucky that the tech manual was tucked under the control panel, which can really help in troubleshooting. Watch the hole where the mounting screw goes to align the hole on the heating assembly rail with the hole on the heater box as seen below: Reconnect the wires. However, info on location of heating element and how to replace … I knew it was bad because of my multimeter readings which could not be wrong, reading an open circuit, but I wanted to see the break for myself. I cleaned it out before I put it back on because it was packed with lint: In the top front left corner there is a black single electrical connector, which can be seen in the picture below: To disconnect this connector simply grasp each end of the connector and pull the connector straight apart. Typically the circuit breakers for 220V are permanently jumpered so you can’t trip a single side of them but if somehow one side was bad it would be a big waste to replace the element if it was only a power issue. THIS IS THE PROBLEM! John, thanks for the question. Now you can line up the screws on the lower right and left corners. The door assembly is supporting the front end of the dryer drum but it can safely rest on the other internal components of the dryer. Repair difficulty. Read more. The heating element warms air as it passes over the element. Once you have the tensioner disconnected, the belt around the drum should be loose like this: Tip: I think this drum is exactly the same on the front end as it is the back end but you may want to mark which end went in first at this point, before you remove your drum. If one of the legs are dead you could have power at the dryer, enough to turn the drum and run the electronics, but not the power necessary for the heating element. The screws are 1/4″ hex heads so if you have a screw bit driver, it will fit perfectly over them: Caution: The edges of the sheet metal can be sharp. Your repair discription was very good, however you skipped a vital step that could have saved you a lot of time and frustration. I did remove power and disconnect each component before testing continuity with the results as reported. You need to remove the screen because soon we will remove lint duct that it inserts into. The control panel is hinged at the top back corners. Mine read 0.3 ohms, which should be fine: Move your multimeter leads down to the two terminals of the thermal cut-off switch, keeping the multimeter in the resistance setting, and measure the resistance across that switch: Technically the high limit thermal switch is a fuse, so it should be a normally closed short circuit as well and should be nearly a short circuit. Model #11067042600 Kenmore Elite dryer. When we open up this dryer you could be electrocuted if you do not unplug your dryer. The problem could be a bad thermal fuse, a thermistor, or in my case, the electric heating element. How to Replace Heating Element Connecting Wire for Kenmore 110.66972500 No heat or not enough heat #AP3134638. For fun I wanted to verify the resistance of the new element: The new element measures a resistance of 9.9 ohms, which is almost exactly in the middle of the 7.8-11.8 ohms range–we are good to go! Grip the connector in the location indicated below and never pull on the wires when removing electrical connectors: Remove the single heating element bracket screw: The heating element assembly slides straight into the heater box on two rails, one on each side. I also cleaned the top while I had it off since a previous owner of the dryer had spilled laundry detergent up under the control panel. I have validated 240VAC across the heater strip circuit but still no heat – at a loss as to what to do next. You should definitely clean out ALL lint out of your dryer when you perform this repair. Here is his suggestion: You should always check for correct voltage supplied. One question- did you isolate, ie unplug, each device before taking your resistance measurement or were they connected to the dryer—if they were still connected it will measure the entire circuit, not the individual device, and you may not get an accurate measurement. 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